Wednesday 19 June 2019

India's paradise


I have always wanted to visit “paradise” on earth: a paradise that is disputed and fought for; a paradise that is suffering in silence; a paradise that is virgin, not by choice; a paradise that has been reported to be infested by fear and war; That doesn’t sound like paradise, now does it?

I didn’t think so either, that is until I visited this “paradise” last week for a wedding.

My relationship with Kashmir goes back to 2017 when I dated Arsalan. Going back was my way of feeling connected to him, even though he doesn’t reside there anymore and even though we never did have a future together. But somehow my heart always longed to go back, find his family, and experience the stories he would narrate to me about his homeland. That was the beginning of our love story- of Kashmir and me.

The wedding then was a mere excuse for a bigger purpose.

Kashmir is just as they described it: paradise on earth- serene and green.

Except for the sight of uniformed men standing guard at every nook and corner, for no apparent reason at all, even at random spots. The look on their faces was disheartening. Their eyes numb. Something about this whole thing was quite disturbing. Then there were the convoys that passed us in hoards, just as Arsalan described them, and nothing like the media showed us. There was no war. There was no shooting. Everything was peaceful. Then why is it that we are made to believe that Kashmir is unsafe?

Perhaps a political agenda? About 30% of India’s economy is reserved for the protection of Kashmir. From what I wondered. Imagine if this 30% was poured into development efforts instead? Imagine if the soldiers were given something more fruitful to do. Imagine if they were allowed to go home? How then would the government rationalize the taxes we are paying? War is a business.

But from whom is the Indian army protecting Kashmir? From the Kashmiris who are tired of being controlled and who are actually trying to protect their homeland from a mindless war with India’s neighbor? Ironic isn’t it? No wonder, Kashmiris aren’t in favor of the Indian government. No wonder they are sick and tired. No wonder, Kashmir remains sheltered from the world. No wonder Kashmir is never promoted by the Indian government for tourism purposes. It is almost as if the government wants to paralyze the region so that they are forced to surrender. But Kashmiris are strong economically. Every Kashmiri has a roof above their head. No one is really “homeless” or “hungry”. The only beggars we saw were the ones from Rajasthan and other parts of India. No Kashmiri begs. Instead, the employment index of Kashmir is high. Why doesn’t any media report this story from Kashmir? Beats me.

The roads are paved, the eateries clean and upmarket. Heck, even their airport is much nicer than some of the airports in India’s metro cities.

We are made to believe that Kashmiris are all militants funded by Pakistan. That we should fear them. But I never witnessed this side of Kashmir. Instead, I felt safe, taking in the sights and realizing how much of what the media reports is fabricated. It is hard to believe that Kashmir is made out to be the devil’s land. Some of my closest friends are Kashmiris. Dare anyone call them out as terrorists! There was no war, no bullets, no lunatics firing into the crowd. We only saw Kashmiris living their lives. It is as if they had adapted to being “watched”.

But for how much longer can this continue?

Kashmir is just caught up in this divide between India and Pakistan. It isn’t fair to the people of Kashmir. It isn’t fair to the soldiers. It isn’t fair for the families of the nation’s soldiers. It isn’t fair for tourists. It isn’t fair to Kashmir.

The Indian government claims that Kashmir is theirs. But what they have been doing is pushing Kashmiris away. Clinging on to it by means of arms will only have repercussions.

I only see dialogue as a means to win the confidence of the people of this paradise. Modi has already done wonders with the country’s poor. I am confident that his government can bring peace if they look beyond weapons and violence. It’s time to not be in the offensive. It is time for some real action. It is time Kashmir earns her place in travel bucket lists. It is time paradise be regained. And it is time our soldiers be united with their family.